We were at breakfast first thing in the morning leaving our luggage to be placed on the bus. As we left Hippo Hollow Resort for the last time, we passed this beautiful peacock. If I were a sign-seeking kinda girl, this would have been a good omen.
And we were off to start our Kruger National Park Safari Adventure!! Kruger National Park is about the size of Israel. It has other private animal preserves around it's border. All these animal preserves and Kruger have decided to leave their borders that connect without fences and only maintain fences on the very outside edges. This allows the animals that live within these fences even more area in which to roam. Kruger is a picture taking only place. No actual hunting of the animals in it. Some of the private preserves are hunting with a guide only.
These vehicles would be our means of transportation our entire trip. The big white bus in the back drove us from Johannesburg to Kruger and all places in between. Then it would drive us back to Johannesburg. While in Kruger it would be parked inside Skukusa. While on safari for the next three days, we would be driven in that lovely green Nissan on the end. These are Jeep-like vehicles. The first bench seat is for the driver and one passenger. They drive on the wrong side of the road compared to where we drive in America. Behind the driver's seat are three more rows of seating and they are made in stadium fashion with three people to a row. We would ride with the same driver and people all three days. Our group took turns on each of the rows. The further to the back of the vehicle you sat the higher off the ground so my feet dangled like a little kid on the middle and back rows. The driver had a blanket on each seat for each passenger. We would stay in Skukusa. Skukusa is one of the camps in Kruger. It is the busiest. There are cabins to stay in, a conference facility and dining and shopping options. The 'camps' are all fenced in. There is a gate that opens at 6am and closes at 6pm in August. The hours for opening and closing vary throughout the year. These hours are strictly observed. We would leave Skukusa on safari at 6am and return at 6pm for two days. The third and last day we left at 7am and returned by 4:30pm. This allows you a better chance to see animals that sleep during the day and hunt at night like the leopard. There are the Big 5 that for which one searches. This is the elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, lion and the buffalo. The Big 5 were chosen because they were larger and more dangerous for the big game hunters to shoot. Many people go into Kruger for a day and may never see all the Big 5. We would have 3 days and were fortunate enough to see the Big 5 on our first day. This safari experience is amazing. The air is so fresh it is 'more than fresh'. Wish I could bottle it and bring it home. And we have great air in Kentucky. Our driver was Thulani. The 'h' is silent. He has been doing this for 16 years and really knows his stuff. We were blow away by his ability to drive and look for animals a great distance from the road and very well camouflaged. He is not only looking for the animal but watching the signs of their presence along and on the road, things like prints and droppings and growth eaten from trees. He reads and studies about these animals all the time and continues to add to his knowledge and understanding every day. We were very grateful to have Thulani as our guide.
We got right inside the gate and to our green safari vehicle. There was a bus full of school children that was parked near us waiting their turn to enter Kruger. I went over and talked to them through the windows of the bus. They were eager to chat and it was so fun to visit with them. When I turned to return to our car, Claude took this picture of me with the kids on the bus. I love that when we are out of the country like this, we cross culture lines and can enjoy people from all around the world. It really helps get past that feeling of fear that we develop as we watch all the horror on the evening news. There are good people everywhere and we can all be friends.
Then Alan, who is the master at being friends around the world, comes to be sure we are ready to start our safari and he gathers the kids, who are now off their bus, and gets a great picture. Then he has them all jump up and yell "Africa!" So fun!
Thulani drove us through the gate and we were officially inside Kruger National Park!
One of the first animals we would find were impala. Little did we know these would become so commonplace we would not even stop for them. After the first day, I told Claude, "I am sure that the little lion cubs look at their Mom and Dad and say, 'Impala...again!'" They are beautiful animals and the males sport beautiful antlers.
Claude and I saw several of these types of hills, smaller though, outside the park as we drove to Kruger. I asked Thulani and he informed us they are termite hills. Some were enormous inside of Kruger. Thulani explained they are often built against trees for support. He also explained that as much as you see on top of the ground there is an amount of hill at least that large underground. I likened them to the iceberg of Kruger. You really only see a portion of it above the water. There is lots more under the water (ground). The termite hills can we worn down as it goes through it's cycle of life and then it makes nice hollow spot for larger animals.
A lot of the southern part of Kruger has this type of landscape. You can see how it goes from grasslands to mountains in the distance. It is stunning. Impala are in this picture.
This picture is strictly a landscape picture. Claude and I figured for years we wouldn't go to Africa. I mean, we could see animals in a zoo, right? It is really nothing like seeing them roam free in this amazing place. In our five previous trips with Alan, we always asked him where he loves to travel most. He is all over the globe several times each year. He always says Africa. He comes twice a year, in January and August. He loves this place and we would truly understand why as we enjoyed this experience.
Now I am going to post a set of pictures to help you get a feel of what a safari is like. Often when you spot the animal they are way in the bush. Thulani would park or move the Jeep (I'm going to call the car a Jeep because that is just easier) to a better position so we could all see. Then you will watch and wait as the animals move so that you get a better picture. A zoom on your camera allows you to get a close up of the animal even though they may be quite a distance away. I don't have one of the big fancy cameras with all the bells and whistles but I enjoy my little one just as much and think I got some good pictures of our safari adventure. So, let's find the zebra in this series of pictures and let you experience in still shots what searching and finding and waiting for the animals is like. Oh, they don't say zebra with a long 'e'. They say it with a short 'e' and it is simply lovely to hear them say zebra with a short 'e'.
If you look closely at the second picture, it appears the zebra has three different colors of strips. They have the typical black and white strips but in between there is a fainter color of the dark strip. Just a point of interest.
After a little practice, we were all searching for animals and birds of any variety. I found that when we got home and were driving to our home in the country, I was looking along the sides of the roads still for animals!
Here is another nice landscape shot. It gave me a feel for what our Jeep looked like as we drove in search of animals.
First spotting of the elephants. This is one of the Big 5. The Big 5 are elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and buffalo.
You drive along and suddenly there is a huge outcropping of rocks. Sometimes it is a big rock with an oddly place little rock on top and you are left to wonder how in the world that little rock got on top of that big rock. Claude and I also saw some rocks that we determined were Pride Rock from the movie "The Lion King". At least that is what we determined we would tell our grandmonsters. Here is a large rock formation and to the side was a perfect example of Pride Rock.
Here is another example of the great eyes of Thulani. I zoomed in a bit just to get this distance shot of the impala on the side of the rocks. When Thulani stopped, I was able to zoom in even closer. Boggles my mind that he can spot these things at great distances while driving.
Vervet monkeys.
Kudu. This was on our dinner buffet the first night we stayed in Hippo Hollow.
We stopped at a rest camp for a break. On display with this ox cart. It is for the late 1800's and was used by transport riders from the eastern Transvaal goldfields on the 'old transport road' to take supplies through the lowerveld. A veld is open, uncultivated country or grasslands in South Africa. The elevation of the land determined if it was lowveld, middleveld or highveld.
We also found a zebra skin for sale. This requires a special license and careful monitoring to get. We did not purchase or bring home any animal pelts.
And we are back on the road looking for more magnificent animals. First we found a small herd of elephants.
Look really closely at this picture. In the lower middle left side of the picture is a darker gray something. I would be Big 5 find Number 2.
As Thulani found a place to stop the car so we could all find this practically hidden creature, I was able to zoom in and get this closer picture of a rhinoceros. We would only see a rhinoceros once again on our last moments on safari on the third day. We did see patrols out looking for poachers who slip into the park. They are after the horn on the nose of the rhinoceros. It is really made of the same thing as your finger nails but it highly prized in some countries.
We paused at a watering hole and watched the waterbuck. They were on the lookout for something they saw, or smelled, or heard in the distance. We were learning to watch what the animals were doing to see if we would find other things in the park.
I honestly have no idea what this pretty little bird is. But it is a cutie.
We found a pair of the Southern Ground Hornbill. These pictures only show one of them but there were two. Honestly. There were two.
Another lovely landscape.
This is Thulani, our guide and driver, hard at work.
How did those big rocks get on top of the huge rock? Very interesting.
We found lions. One was on top of a termite hill. There were two others at the base of the termite hill under a tree. This lion is number 3 of our search for the Big 5.
This is Big 5 number 4...the buffalo. In this case it is a Cape Buffalo. That is what is found in Kruger National Park. They are with the zebra. There are animals that can move and graze together. Clearly that is the case with Cape Buffalo and zebras.
We would see hyenas several times. They look so strong with their broad shoulders and tinier back end.
Another kudu.
Thulani drove us to a watering hole. Really a big pond. Here we experienced life around the pond. There was a leopard hiding in a bush. Thulani parked and we were able to watch the animals react to their concern about the possibility of danger to them if they went to get water. We watched a leopard assess whether to attack or not. He has to have his prey close enough to get them in a short sprint. He was very patient. The leopard is the 5th of our Big 5 finds.
I start with a view of the edge of the pond. Around the edge of the water are three bushes. The one on the left side of the picture has the leopard under it. The impala on the top of the ridge around the pond really wanted to come down for a drink. Something in the situation made them very, very cautious. As we watched the bush on the left, we could see the leopard carefully perk his head up and assess the situation. The thing is...none of the animals came near the leopard. It is amazing to see how this animal kingdom works around the watering place for all of them.
If you know me, you know I love turtles. All the leopard and larger animal excitement was great but seeing this took my breath away. I thought as I looked at it from a distance that I saw a big rock in the water. Then I realized it was a hippopotamus with turtles all over its back. I counted at least 18 before the hippo started to move in the water. The turtles gradually slid off. So fun to watch.
Wildebeest also came to water. The lead wildebeest came to the top of the ridge and paused to assess the situation. The other wildebeest started to come to the top of the ridge. Impala were behind them and not coming to the top of the ridge yet. Eventually the wildebeest seemed to know it was not safe for them and the left. The leopard watched them very carefully but stayed under his bush. They were not close enough quite for him to catch on a single bound.
This is a Steppe Buzzard.
We eventually left the pond. The leopard was up and watching but nothing was close enough for him to feel he would successfully catch his dinner.
We found more elephants.
Another kudu. Can you tell that you never know what you will find as you drive through Kruger? You are at the mercy of where the animals want to be. You are in their home. Cool!
Another landscape picture. Look at that amazing sky full of white clouds.
Now for a giraffe encounter. The last picture is pretty sad. This giraffe wandered up after the other two had been there a bit. Those in our car looking through binoculars commented there was something white hanging on this last giraffe. After it got a lot closer, I zoomed in with my camera and took the picture that let me see what they were talking about. Thulani said it was probably some type of tumor. Look below his neck and above his front legs and you will see these things hanging off the poor giraffe. Life can be hard for these magnificent beasts.
This is a river bed. We are at the end of their winter so there was not lots of water rushing through these river beds. When the rains come, some of these rivers will fill and the roads running through them will be covered with water.
This bird is a Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill. think Zazu in The Lion King.
To me this giraffe looks like he is playing peek-a-boo.
And this pretty bird is a Lilac-breasted Roller.
Next we saw a Magpie Shrike.
And a Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.
In the middle of all the bird sightings, we found another kudu.
This is a Burchell's Starling,
These little steenbok's are just adorable. They have the most huge eyes.
I never tired of watching the elephants. They are ALWAYS eating. It takes a lot of leaves to fill up the beasts. They take that trunk and just rip off the leaves. Fascinating the control they have with that trunk.
Thulani found another one of the large rock hills. On the side he pointed out a Sable Antelope.
And a warthog. Think Pumbaa from The Lion King.
Elephants. Let me count the ways... It is hard to say these things but it is something new I learned.
First, I will speak of dung. Yep, poop. You can tell an elephant's poop by the texture. There is a lot of poop along the roads from big animals in Kruger. It is their yard and that is where they go, whenever. But since the elephant will eat leaves and branches and thorn bushes, etc. their poop has a distinctive texture. So, when looking at the poop along the road, it becomes easier to spot which is an elephant versus a rhinoceros or other large animal. At first poop of any animal is wet and dark looking. That let's one know the animal was there recently. The longer it lays there the dryer and lighter it becomes and you know the animal was there some times ago. If you have watched these signs for 16 years, like Thulani, you know to slow way down and look or keep on driving.
Second, and this is really sensitive to speak of, the male or bull elephants periodically go in to 'musth'. This is pronounce 'must'. This simply means they want to mate. However, in a bull elephant this urge is 60 times greater than that elephant would normally feel. How did science measure that and come up with 60 times...I have no idea and really don't want to know. This urge is so strong till that male elephant can be found pushing over trees to release tension. This is one time in the elephants life when you really, really, really want to stay away from him. We were driving along and Thulani slowed down and drove very slowly looking at the median part of the road we were on. Then he explained he was looking at the drippings down the middle of the road. Yep. That's right. He knew they were drippings from a bull elephant in musth and he had been through this area recently. Oh my! the things that we learned on this trip.
From the big to the tiny...another steenbok.
These two pictures show the difference between the female and the male impala.
I tried to get a picture of a thornbush. Elephants will eat these things. How do they digest this?
And this green tree in the background is called an candelabra tree. It comes in tall and shorter versions and is very pretty and interesting. However, it is poisonous. We were told several times that if you interact with it, it has the ability to cause you to go blind for 24 hours. Stay away from that pretty thing.
We are nearing the end of our first day. A few more animals to find on the way back to Skukusa's gate before 6pm. First, a little steenbok.
Next to last is another kudu. Can you see the sun is going down? The air was a lot cooler and the wind was picking up. A change in the weather was on the way.
And one last elephant sighting for this day.
Thulani got us into Skukusa just in time. We were dropped near the big white bus where we were given our key to our room for the next three nights with a map of how to find the room. Our luggage was taken there while we were out riding around on safari looking for all these lovely animals. We found our room and, after a lot of jiggling of the key (it was an old-fashioned skeleton key), Claude finally got into our room. We found four suitcases, two of which belonged to Mr. & Mrs. Diamond. Hmm... I walked back to the big white bus and told Adele we had a concern. She located where the Diamond's room was and they moved the luggage. The Diamond's were very happy to have their luggage. This is Claude in front of our home-away-from-home. Remember the Rondavel's. This is one of the them. It came with an outside kitchen. When you enter there was a large bedroom with three single beds, dresser, closet and sitting bench built into the wall. The bathroom was tiny and narrow with a shower. Cute place and very comfortable for the three night stay.
Dinner would be in the restaurant at 7pm. Then we were back to our little hut for a good night's rest. We needed to be up and at the Jeep by 6am for an early departure for our second day of safari.
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